Don Beto, an older, long-term Chacalean stopped me on the road today near my camp today. He has a little campground next to his son’s campground (where I stay). He was so upset he was shaking. He was upset because some middle-aged French-Canadians in a very fancy small RV with motorcycle and bikes had parked in one of the areas he collects rent on (and provides toilets and showers and picks up the trash) had refused to pay $4 a night to camp there. He said they had stayed in the same spot the year before for weeks and had left during the night to avoid paying their rental fees. He wanted me to talk to them. So I tried.
I had met the women, an artist, the day before. When I went over to their van, I saw they were hanging out at a house where an American has been squatting in a house on the beach for awhile, and lives sort of next to the camping spot. He and I have been friendly, but we disagree about a lot of things, and one of them is the rent issue. So after we said hello, I said Don Beto had just asked me to talk with them about paying rent on their camping spot.
I was kind of nervous, stepping into the situation, but I did it anyway, partly because Don Beto was so upset, and partly because it makes me sick to see people with lots of financial resources coming to Chacala and enjoying its beauty, and not wanting to pay anything (or complaining about the little bit they are asked to pay) for their use of such a beautiful place.
If you are looking for a place to stay in Chacala, go to RENTALS in CHACALA.
Anyone who is staying in Chacala is using the resources of the town, The water, the sewage system, the electrical system, the roads, phone lines, the trash pickup and disposal, and possibly the internet place/English library at the Bibliotecha.
The beautiful clean beach would not be beautiful if someone wasn’t be paid to keep it clean. When the holes in the paved road get too horrible (generally caused by giant contractor trucks speeding to the Marina Chacala gated-community), the town men go out and with shovels and wheelbarrows, and fill the holes. When the stream the town water comes from gets to filled with silt, the people from Chacala got out there and spend days bucketing out the mud behind the little cement dam. When the roads get so rutted from the rainy season, people from town fill the ruts.
In my opinion visitors to Chacala should try to carry their weight here, and take their share of the load of maintaining this beautiful town and beach. Perhaps that share is contributing to the economy of the entire town by paying a small, token rent.
Why should well-off people vacation on the backs and the work of the local people? Why do they think they should be able to come to a beautiful beach, park their ugly little motor vehicles in a primo spot, and not pay a cent? Who do they think should maintain this beautiful place for them, so they can have a beautiful spot for free? I think they are getting a really good deal for four bucks a night. And if they used the toilets here they wouldn’t be tempted to go empty they toilet tanks of the side of the road in the middle of the night, as some do. Or dig a hole in the sand and dump their black water there.
I guess if they don’t understand there’s no such thing as a free lunch by the time they’re middle-aged, they never will. It makes me sad. And mad. Oh well. Sorry for the bitching.
If you are interested in seeing a list of Chacala websites you can go to Chacala Websites for info.
Update on Sunday: no rent paid yet.
Saturday, December 10, 2005
Ten-speed Bicyclists in Chacala
Tonight, just before dusk, three young men from PA and CO came riding into Chacala today on their very spiffy bicycles. It’s the first time I have seen bicyclers visiting Chacala, and they caught the eye of everyone on the street. Polo, of Polo’s famous Tacos, asked me to go tell them to come eat taco’s at his stand, and one of the local kids and his dog went running alongside them. The bikers didn’t notice Edgar but they did notice me, and they stopped to talk.
They wanted to know about camping on the beach, and I pointed out the place where the road goes through the opening in the fence. I explained that I thought there might be some areas that no one collected rent on, but I didn’t know where. I also mentioned that when they used toilets and showers in town there was a charge. I also said that if everyone who camped on the beach defecated in the bushes no one could stand the smell. They looked embarrassed, and I hope they think about what I said before depositing their bodily wastes in the sand somewhere.
Anyway, they seemed like nice young men, Who knows. They had been studying in Guadalajara after college, taken the bus to Tepic and riden their bikes to San Blas, and then down the coast to Chacala. As the sun was going down they said they thought Chacala was the most beautiful beach they had seen.
They wanted to know about camping on the beach, and I pointed out the place where the road goes through the opening in the fence. I explained that I thought there might be some areas that no one collected rent on, but I didn’t know where. I also mentioned that when they used toilets and showers in town there was a charge. I also said that if everyone who camped on the beach defecated in the bushes no one could stand the smell. They looked embarrassed, and I hope they think about what I said before depositing their bodily wastes in the sand somewhere.
Anyway, they seemed like nice young men, Who knows. They had been studying in Guadalajara after college, taken the bus to Tepic and riden their bikes to San Blas, and then down the coast to Chacala. As the sun was going down they said they thought Chacala was the most beautiful beach they had seen.
Thursday, December 08, 2005
Sunsets and Kids Surfing in Chacala
Another nice thing about living right on Chacala beach is watching to sun going down. The sunsets are often really spectacular. It is happening right now, as I type, and the red on the clouds is amazing. The exact spot the sun goes into the ocean is gradually moving south right now. I guess the place it sets will start moving north at the equinox on the 21st. I think I have that right.
I had noticed other times that the boys from the families I am renting my camping ramada from are out surfing in front of this campsite every late afternoon. And sometimes early in the morning, before the sun is up. They seem so fearless. Two of the boys are in their late teens, I think, and I am pretty sure these same two boys have been surfing this spot for at least two years. Another younger boy, maybe 10, seems to be learning by trying to surf about twenty feet away.
Some of the waves are pretty big, and occasionally they coming crashing in so closely together I can’t imagine how the boys survive. But they do. When the waves are at their biggest I hold my breathe and count heads after every wave. I guess I will get accustomed to their expertise after a few weeks of watching them.
I am getting nervous about more visitors from the US/Canada arriving in the next few weeks. I like it here better when I know, at least to recognize, almost everyone in town. Oh well. Tourism is a big part of the economy here, so it’s stupid for me to regret it. After all, I am a visitor too.
If you are thinking of coming down, please look at Chacala Budget Rentals for ideas about places to stay, and so on. As a kind of volunteer, I help make reservations for some of the cheaper rentals in Chacala. I have listed all the contact info that I have for all the rentals in Chacala.
I had noticed other times that the boys from the families I am renting my camping ramada from are out surfing in front of this campsite every late afternoon. And sometimes early in the morning, before the sun is up. They seem so fearless. Two of the boys are in their late teens, I think, and I am pretty sure these same two boys have been surfing this spot for at least two years. Another younger boy, maybe 10, seems to be learning by trying to surf about twenty feet away.
Some of the waves are pretty big, and occasionally they coming crashing in so closely together I can’t imagine how the boys survive. But they do. When the waves are at their biggest I hold my breathe and count heads after every wave. I guess I will get accustomed to their expertise after a few weeks of watching them.
I am getting nervous about more visitors from the US/Canada arriving in the next few weeks. I like it here better when I know, at least to recognize, almost everyone in town. Oh well. Tourism is a big part of the economy here, so it’s stupid for me to regret it. After all, I am a visitor too.
If you are thinking of coming down, please look at Chacala Budget Rentals for ideas about places to stay, and so on. As a kind of volunteer, I help make reservations for some of the cheaper rentals in Chacala. I have listed all the contact info that I have for all the rentals in Chacala.
Tuesday, December 06, 2005
To Be of Use (in Chacala)
Lately I have been thinking about how people who visit Chacala experience the poverty and social inequities they see here. Living here, I get to observe the different reactions visitors have when they came face-to-face with everyday life in Chacala, as compared to what they expected or whatever it is they are accustomed to at home.
Some visitors seem to believe that the access to jobs, education, medical care, and financial security they have enjoyed in their lives is the result of their natural, personal superiority (some kind of birth right, I suppose), as opposed to the good luck to have been born into a wealthy nation. They seem to feel that the entitlements they have enjoyed makes them smarter and wiser than local people.
In any case, people with that perspective are generally very willing to share their instant solutions to Chacala problems. Their comments generally start with “if only they would….”, and are generally offered within a few days of arriving here.
Other people fall in love with the town, the natural setting, and (sometimes) the people, and want to find a way to live here. Sometimes their idea is that someone should pay them (preferable at high wages) to do something here (teach something, offer massage or medical care or something) that will allow them to stay here. It’s not clear who would be paying them, or why local people would prefer to hire a non-local person to do work a local person does. Or they want to start of business that will provide them income, without much concern about the impact of their business will have on the local infrastructure, economy, environment, etc.
Some people, or sometimes the same people, say things like “I want to help the people here”. Sometimes I ask, help them what? Make more money? Have a nicer family life? Improve the local school system, the water system, the waste water treatment system? Electrical service? Practice birth control? Deal with substance and alcohol abuse? Have better marriages? Be better parents? Save enough money to live in some other wonderful place? Change the political system? Deal with the everyday corruption?
I am very curious how these people think they can “help” people here, considering what a terrible mess the US is. In all the above areas. I wonder how it is that people think they have solutions to problems here when they apparently aren’t part of the solution to the same problems at home. Or maybe they are part of the solution and didn’t like how it turned out. Like voting for Bush and then seeing what they got for their trouble.
Of course there are people who came here, saw a need, and jumped in and dealt with that need. Dale Reinhardt, Susana Escobido, Jose Enrique De Valle, all did just that. And in a big way, with very little in the way of personal resources. It appears to me that each of them saw a need: a physical location for education and community (Dale), a structured community-based program for using that building (Susana), and the funding for those buildings and programs (Susana and Rotarians and other individuals), and housing with a source of income for some of the poorest families (Jose Enrique).
Pretty amazing what some people can do. And how wonderful they are able to draw other volunteers into their dreams, and to allow them to be part of their solutions to Chacala’s problems.
I think I am in some other category that’s hard for me to see. I try to step back and observe myself and what I am doing in Chacala. It’s very hard for me to figure out what I am doing. I tithe with my money always. But it’s kind of random. Every month that little pile of cash gets doled out in response to whatever needs present themselves to me. Sometimes the need is so obvious I don’t even think about it. If I think a little cash will help, I just hand some over. I have a few small projects I share my cash with regularly, but mostly it’s just whatever need I notice, or tugs at my heart strings, or whatever. And I have a couple of small, regular contributions I make to families with kids in Kinder.
I don’t think my small efforts are going to make any difference in whatever happens in Chacala. But they make me feel good and part of things. I am kind of proud of helping some Techo owners get a few more renters, and maybe I will be able to help some of the small tourist-based businesses grow a little. But really both those efforts are basically for my own pleasure, my attempts to find a way to be part of things here and be of use.
I get so much pleasure being here, living my life here. So many people have been kind and friendly to me. People are very observant of each other around here. They just step right up and help out. Carry your package, give you a hand, a ride, whatever. A smile, a friendly welcome, a quick lesson in Spanish pronunciation, a joke, and invitation to a party.
There is a lot of non-verbal communication here. It’s been very good for me to become more aware (but not very aware yet) of how other people are reacting to me. I am getting a little better at noticing when I am rude, and sometimes I can see that I hurt someone, and I have a chance to apologize. I think, like in all small towns, people here know they have to keep living together even if they don’t like each other very much, so they find ways to “get over it” and go on interacting.
There is lots of eye contact here and lots of little expressions and hand gestures and so on that go on all the time. Some of it is directed at me, and I loved feeling included and connected here. Lots and lots of jokes and laughing. I can even make jokes in Spanish that get a laugh, at least sometimes. Or maybe they are just laughing at me, not with me.
I know I am getting more than I could ever give to people in Chacala. My little efforts are nothing compared to the warmth and welcome I feel here. People talk to each other so much more here than do the people I lived around in the US. Families and friends spend hours just talking and eating together. Here lunch is at about 2pm and goes for a couple of hours, often with a nap thrown in.
Enough rambling. You’d think I actually like my life here or something.
Some visitors seem to believe that the access to jobs, education, medical care, and financial security they have enjoyed in their lives is the result of their natural, personal superiority (some kind of birth right, I suppose), as opposed to the good luck to have been born into a wealthy nation. They seem to feel that the entitlements they have enjoyed makes them smarter and wiser than local people.
In any case, people with that perspective are generally very willing to share their instant solutions to Chacala problems. Their comments generally start with “if only they would….”, and are generally offered within a few days of arriving here.
Other people fall in love with the town, the natural setting, and (sometimes) the people, and want to find a way to live here. Sometimes their idea is that someone should pay them (preferable at high wages) to do something here (teach something, offer massage or medical care or something) that will allow them to stay here. It’s not clear who would be paying them, or why local people would prefer to hire a non-local person to do work a local person does. Or they want to start of business that will provide them income, without much concern about the impact of their business will have on the local infrastructure, economy, environment, etc.
Some people, or sometimes the same people, say things like “I want to help the people here”. Sometimes I ask, help them what? Make more money? Have a nicer family life? Improve the local school system, the water system, the waste water treatment system? Electrical service? Practice birth control? Deal with substance and alcohol abuse? Have better marriages? Be better parents? Save enough money to live in some other wonderful place? Change the political system? Deal with the everyday corruption?
I am very curious how these people think they can “help” people here, considering what a terrible mess the US is. In all the above areas. I wonder how it is that people think they have solutions to problems here when they apparently aren’t part of the solution to the same problems at home. Or maybe they are part of the solution and didn’t like how it turned out. Like voting for Bush and then seeing what they got for their trouble.
Of course there are people who came here, saw a need, and jumped in and dealt with that need. Dale Reinhardt, Susana Escobido, Jose Enrique De Valle, all did just that. And in a big way, with very little in the way of personal resources. It appears to me that each of them saw a need: a physical location for education and community (Dale), a structured community-based program for using that building (Susana), and the funding for those buildings and programs (Susana and Rotarians and other individuals), and housing with a source of income for some of the poorest families (Jose Enrique).
Pretty amazing what some people can do. And how wonderful they are able to draw other volunteers into their dreams, and to allow them to be part of their solutions to Chacala’s problems.
I think I am in some other category that’s hard for me to see. I try to step back and observe myself and what I am doing in Chacala. It’s very hard for me to figure out what I am doing. I tithe with my money always. But it’s kind of random. Every month that little pile of cash gets doled out in response to whatever needs present themselves to me. Sometimes the need is so obvious I don’t even think about it. If I think a little cash will help, I just hand some over. I have a few small projects I share my cash with regularly, but mostly it’s just whatever need I notice, or tugs at my heart strings, or whatever. And I have a couple of small, regular contributions I make to families with kids in Kinder.
I don’t think my small efforts are going to make any difference in whatever happens in Chacala. But they make me feel good and part of things. I am kind of proud of helping some Techo owners get a few more renters, and maybe I will be able to help some of the small tourist-based businesses grow a little. But really both those efforts are basically for my own pleasure, my attempts to find a way to be part of things here and be of use.
I get so much pleasure being here, living my life here. So many people have been kind and friendly to me. People are very observant of each other around here. They just step right up and help out. Carry your package, give you a hand, a ride, whatever. A smile, a friendly welcome, a quick lesson in Spanish pronunciation, a joke, and invitation to a party.
There is a lot of non-verbal communication here. It’s been very good for me to become more aware (but not very aware yet) of how other people are reacting to me. I am getting a little better at noticing when I am rude, and sometimes I can see that I hurt someone, and I have a chance to apologize. I think, like in all small towns, people here know they have to keep living together even if they don’t like each other very much, so they find ways to “get over it” and go on interacting.
There is lots of eye contact here and lots of little expressions and hand gestures and so on that go on all the time. Some of it is directed at me, and I loved feeling included and connected here. Lots and lots of jokes and laughing. I can even make jokes in Spanish that get a laugh, at least sometimes. Or maybe they are just laughing at me, not with me.
I know I am getting more than I could ever give to people in Chacala. My little efforts are nothing compared to the warmth and welcome I feel here. People talk to each other so much more here than do the people I lived around in the US. Families and friends spend hours just talking and eating together. Here lunch is at about 2pm and goes for a couple of hours, often with a nap thrown in.
Enough rambling. You’d think I actually like my life here or something.
Camping in Chacala
One of the high points of my day, was I rented a Coke table from Dona Lupe. A Coke table, as in a small four-person table with wooden legs and a red metal top advertising Coke. For some reason I have coveted those tables since I first saw one. No one really owns them. They are for people who sell Coke (half the town probably), and the Coke guys take them back when you stop selling Coke. So Dona Lupe probably isn’t supposed to be renting it to me (for 30pesos/2.80 USD a month), but I am really glad she did. I am using it in my kitchen area.
I set up my old tent this morning, crammed in next to my new tent. I think I am supposed to stay within the boundaries of my palapa roof, which is about 18 by 25 feet, maybe. I don’t think they care if I go out toward the beach/water. I am about 10 feet from the high tide line.
So anyway, now I have a tent for my stuff, like clothes, and this and that, and then my big new tent has my bed and a table and chair for my little office. With my favorite drawing stuff, Spanish lesson books, and my notebooks for lists, and space for my computer. I love sitting in the tent looking out at the ocean and the palm fronds. And now I night I think it will be okay to compute, without the bug problem I hope.
Oh, the other high point today was that the little neighbor boys, six year olds Carlos and Ricardo came back again today to color with my pens. They really do nice drawings and they love the colors.
And I love sitting there with them drawing and watching the ocean, and boats, and pelicans, and people walking back and forth to Mar de Jade, a local small hotel/retreat center.
Here’s another interesting (to me anyway) cultural difference between gringos and Mexicans in Chacala. Mexicans always look and smile and wave when they walk by, even teenagers (unless they’re lost in love). However, guests at Mar de Jade (participants at a Zen retreat this week) seem to either sneakily look and pretend not too, or ignore us sitting here. If we wave they never wave back. I’ll take that back. One lady did wave back and then quickly looked away. I don’t know what they are thinking (maybe not wanting to invade our/my privacy or something.
One way Mexican tourists in Chacala and Zen retreatants are alike is none of them pick up the plastic garbage on the beach. Yesterday a plastic cup was lying on the beach all day and probably 60 people ignored it. Today it was a large green plastic 7-up bottle, and even more people ignored it.
I set up my old tent this morning, crammed in next to my new tent. I think I am supposed to stay within the boundaries of my palapa roof, which is about 18 by 25 feet, maybe. I don’t think they care if I go out toward the beach/water. I am about 10 feet from the high tide line.
So anyway, now I have a tent for my stuff, like clothes, and this and that, and then my big new tent has my bed and a table and chair for my little office. With my favorite drawing stuff, Spanish lesson books, and my notebooks for lists, and space for my computer. I love sitting in the tent looking out at the ocean and the palm fronds. And now I night I think it will be okay to compute, without the bug problem I hope.
Oh, the other high point today was that the little neighbor boys, six year olds Carlos and Ricardo came back again today to color with my pens. They really do nice drawings and they love the colors.
And I love sitting there with them drawing and watching the ocean, and boats, and pelicans, and people walking back and forth to Mar de Jade, a local small hotel/retreat center.
Here’s another interesting (to me anyway) cultural difference between gringos and Mexicans in Chacala. Mexicans always look and smile and wave when they walk by, even teenagers (unless they’re lost in love). However, guests at Mar de Jade (participants at a Zen retreat this week) seem to either sneakily look and pretend not too, or ignore us sitting here. If we wave they never wave back. I’ll take that back. One lady did wave back and then quickly looked away. I don’t know what they are thinking (maybe not wanting to invade our/my privacy or something.
One way Mexican tourists in Chacala and Zen retreatants are alike is none of them pick up the plastic garbage on the beach. Yesterday a plastic cup was lying on the beach all day and probably 60 people ignored it. Today it was a large green plastic 7-up bottle, and even more people ignored it.
View from the south end of Chacala Playa
Sometimes I am just amazed by what other people think. Then, sometimes, I remember that I have misunderstood almost everything in my life at one time or another, so who am I to judge.
However, this one thing sort of floored me. Twice this week people staying at the local retreat center, doing a Zen retreat (apparently a silent retreat, more or less) have been amazed to hear that there are very affordable places to rent in Chacala by the day, week, month, and year. And that where they are staying is NOT the only option. The retreat center is definitely the most expensive option for a room and bath, but not the ONLY option.
Last year a woman who has been coming to annual retreats for nine years didn’t believe there were places to rent here. I asked her where she thought the US/Canadian-looking people were staying and said she didn’t think there were any tourists like that in Chacala.
Of course, I know I don’t understand about 90% of what is going on around me here. This morning as I walked from my camp to the north end of town, and I had four different conversations with people where I still am not sure if we were talking about the same thing.
The vegetable truck guy arrived here at about 6:30am. He called me by name, which kind of surprised me, although I have been buying from him for a long time. Then, when I reached for some grapes he pointed out some newer ones, saying “major”, better. First time for that. Then he and Esperanza, my new landlady, started making jokes about money, which I didn’t get at all.
The water truck man came up a few minutes later. He launched into a long explanation of (I think) why he didn’t leave me any change the last time he dropped the water bottle off. I am guessing that’s what he was saying because he didn’t want any money this time.
I can understand some people’s Spanish really easily, and with some people I don’t have a clue. Kids are the best. They just go slower and slower until I get it. The kids are very helpful little Spanish teachers. Very patient with me and, I think, kind of amazed I am so ignorant (about Spanish).
This afternoon, when I got back from “work”, Carlos was waiting for me so he could draw with my pens. Then within about 10 minutes there were six little kids around the table drawing away. They were here for about an hour. They have come every day so far.
I really like it, but I like my privacy to, so I am trying to structure the drawing thing to one session each afternoon, beginning whenever. I am assuming the thrill will wear off soon and the paper will run out and that will be that.
However, this one thing sort of floored me. Twice this week people staying at the local retreat center, doing a Zen retreat (apparently a silent retreat, more or less) have been amazed to hear that there are very affordable places to rent in Chacala by the day, week, month, and year. And that where they are staying is NOT the only option. The retreat center is definitely the most expensive option for a room and bath, but not the ONLY option.
Last year a woman who has been coming to annual retreats for nine years didn’t believe there were places to rent here. I asked her where she thought the US/Canadian-looking people were staying and said she didn’t think there were any tourists like that in Chacala.
Of course, I know I don’t understand about 90% of what is going on around me here. This morning as I walked from my camp to the north end of town, and I had four different conversations with people where I still am not sure if we were talking about the same thing.
The vegetable truck guy arrived here at about 6:30am. He called me by name, which kind of surprised me, although I have been buying from him for a long time. Then, when I reached for some grapes he pointed out some newer ones, saying “major”, better. First time for that. Then he and Esperanza, my new landlady, started making jokes about money, which I didn’t get at all.
The water truck man came up a few minutes later. He launched into a long explanation of (I think) why he didn’t leave me any change the last time he dropped the water bottle off. I am guessing that’s what he was saying because he didn’t want any money this time.
I can understand some people’s Spanish really easily, and with some people I don’t have a clue. Kids are the best. They just go slower and slower until I get it. The kids are very helpful little Spanish teachers. Very patient with me and, I think, kind of amazed I am so ignorant (about Spanish).
This afternoon, when I got back from “work”, Carlos was waiting for me so he could draw with my pens. Then within about 10 minutes there were six little kids around the table drawing away. They were here for about an hour. They have come every day so far.
I really like it, but I like my privacy to, so I am trying to structure the drawing thing to one session each afternoon, beginning whenever. I am assuming the thrill will wear off soon and the paper will run out and that will be that.
Monday, December 05, 2005
Christmas is Sneaking into Chacala
Christmas is Sneaking into Chacala
I knew it was going to be a long walk from my beach camp to the far north end of Chacala (Casa Pacifica, and even Trini’s) but I was really tired by the time I finished by rounds this morning. I went to Dona’s Lupe’s to finish packing up my stuff, cleaned the quartos for Cleve’s arrival here in 10 days or so, visited with Aurora, used Susana’s internet connection, visited with a bunch of people around that end of town, bought an extension cord, and visited here and there on the way back into “downtown” Chacala. I stopped at Polo’s and Berta's taco stand for a Coke break. He has the first serious/permanent banner across the street for his Taco stand, in addition to excellent tacos. I imagine in a month there will be twenty of them across the street all the way down the beach road.
It looks like the new construction on the tiny lot going uphill toward the school is a house for Juan (of the Joker tienda, his wife Mime and their baby Jesus). Paul’s (the one who is building some rentals and planning to open a surfboard/gym place in town) construction is really moving along fast now. The Canadians house back off the paved road is looking very nice, and a lot of it is plastered with cement now.
The Xmas spirit is creeping around Chacala, house by house. Lights here and there, a few shrines, and a lovely (artifical) tree at one of the houses near the hardware store. The "owner" of the the motor home campground, is creating another large Christmas tree-like creation in front of the Delphin Restaurant. It’s made of lights wrapped along ropes that go at least twenty-five feet high up a palm tree.
There are some days honoring Guadalupe coming up next week. Guadalupe seems to be very important around here, with night pilgrimages, and special events, etc. This is only my third Christmas season in Chacala. The first year I was here I only saw one house with Christmas lights. Last year they were everywhere, and this year all kinds of Xmas stuff is popping up. Guadalupe with blinking colored lights and tinsel around her portrait for example. Poinsettia plants (called Nochebuena) are showing up. Sam’s Club had real Christmas trees last week. Kind of creepy, really.
Don't forget to check here to look at budget rentals if you are thinking of coming down.
I knew it was going to be a long walk from my beach camp to the far north end of Chacala (Casa Pacifica, and even Trini’s) but I was really tired by the time I finished by rounds this morning. I went to Dona’s Lupe’s to finish packing up my stuff, cleaned the quartos for Cleve’s arrival here in 10 days or so, visited with Aurora, used Susana’s internet connection, visited with a bunch of people around that end of town, bought an extension cord, and visited here and there on the way back into “downtown” Chacala. I stopped at Polo’s and Berta's taco stand for a Coke break. He has the first serious/permanent banner across the street for his Taco stand, in addition to excellent tacos. I imagine in a month there will be twenty of them across the street all the way down the beach road.
It looks like the new construction on the tiny lot going uphill toward the school is a house for Juan (of the Joker tienda, his wife Mime and their baby Jesus). Paul’s (the one who is building some rentals and planning to open a surfboard/gym place in town) construction is really moving along fast now. The Canadians house back off the paved road is looking very nice, and a lot of it is plastered with cement now.
The Xmas spirit is creeping around Chacala, house by house. Lights here and there, a few shrines, and a lovely (artifical) tree at one of the houses near the hardware store. The "owner" of the the motor home campground, is creating another large Christmas tree-like creation in front of the Delphin Restaurant. It’s made of lights wrapped along ropes that go at least twenty-five feet high up a palm tree.
There are some days honoring Guadalupe coming up next week. Guadalupe seems to be very important around here, with night pilgrimages, and special events, etc. This is only my third Christmas season in Chacala. The first year I was here I only saw one house with Christmas lights. Last year they were everywhere, and this year all kinds of Xmas stuff is popping up. Guadalupe with blinking colored lights and tinsel around her portrait for example. Poinsettia plants (called Nochebuena) are showing up. Sam’s Club had real Christmas trees last week. Kind of creepy, really.
Don't forget to check here to look at budget rentals if you are thinking of coming down.
My New Chacala Neighborhood
I am just starting to see some of the advantages of moving to different houses in different Chacala neighborhoods every six months or so. I get to see families from a different perspective.
I have been meeting new kids everyday. Last night Carlos drew at my table til dark, and Jessica (who is a relative of this family is lives about four places down the beach) stayed practicing her English/Spanish vocabulary list. I am learning more words every day. My new landlady, Esperanza, and her son Carlos are both teaching me words all day. My mind is boggling with new vocabulary. And Esperanza’s daughter-in-law is pregnant and due in five days, so maybe I will get to hold the new baby later on.
Yesterday when I was looking for someone with a truck to move “my” new Coke table to my camp, I noticed Cheeto’s green and orange truck at Martine’s (Chilango’s) restaurant. It turned his wife, the mother of my favorite two year old, Hector, works at Martine’s (Chilango’s) restaurant. Never knew she worked outside the home before.
I noticed one of the little puestos (shack/store) on the beach road has been lined with a nice screen of small diameter bamboo sticks. The lady there said her son had collected the sticks for her. I like the look.
Another couple, about my age, and part of the Chico’s restaurant family in some way, have turned one of the puestos into a vacation home by putting a large tent inside and adding some nice chairs and tables for lounging around on. They have a light, and this morning I noticed a nice bouquet of flowers on the table. I think they use the facilities at Chico’s, and I know they eat there. They are here til February.
Yesterday morning I went by Chico’s to do glucose tests for Aurora and her dad, Chico. In the two years I have been testing him his blood sugar has dropped from 300 whatevers to 157, which is amazing to me considering he is a very serious consumer of tequila and doesn’t take any medication. It’s still not normal but it’s a lot better than it was. I am thinking of trying his method, but I think the tequila is more expensive than my diabetes meds. Besides, I can’t stand the taste. I ended up testing five people at Chico’s, and all but Chico had normal fasting blood sugars. Excellent for Mexico, where diabetes is the number one killer, ahead of heart disease and cancer.
I have started doing as much grocery shopping as possible at Koko Bongo’s newly expanded grocery. I want to support the families that actually live in Chacala as much as I can. My closest tienda is now Francisco’s. That family lives behind the store, so that’s pretty local.
I am writing this from my big tent with all the window rolled down, screens only, looking at the beach and the ocean and the sun moving across the tree covered point to the south. I am in love with the rhythm of the waves breaking on the beach and at night the white surf of the breakers rolling in. I can’t wait until the moon is full again.
I have been meeting new kids everyday. Last night Carlos drew at my table til dark, and Jessica (who is a relative of this family is lives about four places down the beach) stayed practicing her English/Spanish vocabulary list. I am learning more words every day. My new landlady, Esperanza, and her son Carlos are both teaching me words all day. My mind is boggling with new vocabulary. And Esperanza’s daughter-in-law is pregnant and due in five days, so maybe I will get to hold the new baby later on.
Yesterday when I was looking for someone with a truck to move “my” new Coke table to my camp, I noticed Cheeto’s green and orange truck at Martine’s (Chilango’s) restaurant. It turned his wife, the mother of my favorite two year old, Hector, works at Martine’s (Chilango’s) restaurant. Never knew she worked outside the home before.
I noticed one of the little puestos (shack/store) on the beach road has been lined with a nice screen of small diameter bamboo sticks. The lady there said her son had collected the sticks for her. I like the look.
Another couple, about my age, and part of the Chico’s restaurant family in some way, have turned one of the puestos into a vacation home by putting a large tent inside and adding some nice chairs and tables for lounging around on. They have a light, and this morning I noticed a nice bouquet of flowers on the table. I think they use the facilities at Chico’s, and I know they eat there. They are here til February.
Yesterday morning I went by Chico’s to do glucose tests for Aurora and her dad, Chico. In the two years I have been testing him his blood sugar has dropped from 300 whatevers to 157, which is amazing to me considering he is a very serious consumer of tequila and doesn’t take any medication. It’s still not normal but it’s a lot better than it was. I am thinking of trying his method, but I think the tequila is more expensive than my diabetes meds. Besides, I can’t stand the taste. I ended up testing five people at Chico’s, and all but Chico had normal fasting blood sugars. Excellent for Mexico, where diabetes is the number one killer, ahead of heart disease and cancer.
I have started doing as much grocery shopping as possible at Koko Bongo’s newly expanded grocery. I want to support the families that actually live in Chacala as much as I can. My closest tienda is now Francisco’s. That family lives behind the store, so that’s pretty local.
I am writing this from my big tent with all the window rolled down, screens only, looking at the beach and the ocean and the sun moving across the tree covered point to the south. I am in love with the rhythm of the waves breaking on the beach and at night the white surf of the breakers rolling in. I can’t wait until the moon is full again.
Friday, December 02, 2005
Life on Playa Chacala
I can’t believe I waited so long to start living on the beach at Chacala. I think I was afraid to try camping in such a new environment, and with no Spanish. But I have loved camping all my life, and I should have moved onto the beach in Chacala sooner. In the US I camped on mountain lakes and on slow rivers in canoes and kayaks. This is very different, and I love it.
I’ve been in Chacala two years next week and it finally feels like I am in the right place. I am camping under a palapa at Esperanza and Leovardo’s, and right now I am the only camper here. My lovely son and ex bought me a very nice tent and a foam mattress, so I am living in total comfort. I am starting to look for a new hammock, but it will be awhile before I can afford one.
This morning I was sitting at my little table under the palapa, kind of mesmerized by watching the waves, when I realized the sea was alive with fish jumping around. Then a pelican arrived, landed right in the middle of all the fish turbulence, and the fish scattered in a second. The pelican kept diving but he finally gave up.
Then a minute later a fisherman walked out into the water to about chest high and started casting for fish. Didn’t hook anything and the waves started getting pretty tall, and he finally got knocked over and came in. Then a dog came by and found a dead fish and had a great time tossing it around until it fell apart into pieces and the dog wandered off.
I love going to sleep with the sound of the waves crashing. I love the smell of the sea. I love being outside all day. I love watching the ocean, and the sun moving across the sky, and the family here. Lots of kids. I played futbol with Carlos, aged 6, this morning. I love swimming whenever I want to, all day. What a life.
I’ve been in Chacala two years next week and it finally feels like I am in the right place. I am camping under a palapa at Esperanza and Leovardo’s, and right now I am the only camper here. My lovely son and ex bought me a very nice tent and a foam mattress, so I am living in total comfort. I am starting to look for a new hammock, but it will be awhile before I can afford one.
This morning I was sitting at my little table under the palapa, kind of mesmerized by watching the waves, when I realized the sea was alive with fish jumping around. Then a pelican arrived, landed right in the middle of all the fish turbulence, and the fish scattered in a second. The pelican kept diving but he finally gave up.
Then a minute later a fisherman walked out into the water to about chest high and started casting for fish. Didn’t hook anything and the waves started getting pretty tall, and he finally got knocked over and came in. Then a dog came by and found a dead fish and had a great time tossing it around until it fell apart into pieces and the dog wandered off.
I love going to sleep with the sound of the waves crashing. I love the smell of the sea. I love being outside all day. I love watching the ocean, and the sun moving across the sky, and the family here. Lots of kids. I played futbol with Carlos, aged 6, this morning. I love swimming whenever I want to, all day. What a life.
Moving Again in Chacala
In mid-November I moved from my summer housesit casa (a long walk from the beach), back to Dona Lupe’s (two blocks from the beach), and now after a couple of weeks, I am moved onto the beach. Last night was my first night in my new tent, and I went to sleep with the sound of the waves. I felt so content and at home. Really, the first time I have felt just right about my space.
My move to the beach took a couple of days (well, two trips over two different days). I can’t believe how much stuff I have accumulated. I arrived in Chacala with two suitcases and a small backpack. And it took two small-sized truckloads to move my stuff down to the beach. I have accumulated a fridge, three plastic tables, six plastic chairs, a cooler, a tent, a mattress, bedding, and miscellanous kitchen stuff. And art supplies, and laptop and related equipment, extension cords and a light, etc etc etc
I am having a harder time working out how to do internet stuff since I moved down here. For quite awhile I have been spending five or six hours some days on the computer. I have my own Prodigy connection now, but I still have to find a phone line to use when I what to go online. Right now I have five families who seem to be okay with me using to their phone lines, so I kind of rotate around, trying not to wear out my welcome.
So far it’s working out okay, but living on the beach is different. People say I shouldn’t use this laptop when the air is moist or breezy because the salty moisture and sand-laden air is hard on computers. I think I will try hiding out in the tent with the window flaps zipped up. Then do my normal walk to someone’s phone line to go on-line.
There are more tourists from the US and Canada showing up – seven motor homes on the beach and two boats on the water this morning. Five of the motor homes were from Quebec, which doesn’t bode well for the local entrepenuers, at least if the rumors about French-Canadians who travel in motor homes are true. The rumor being they are very, very careful with their pesos and generally don’t spend any money in Chacala. I have only met a few French-Canadians and they were very nice, and I don’t know if those rumors are true or not. But it is interesting that local business people would be so aware of the differences between the different nationalities of gringo tourists.
I have been having a good time helping people find a place to stay in Chacala. Things are filling up but there is still room at a few places. The less expensive quartros at Aurora’s ($25 a night with bath, two double beds and covered patio), and Concha’s ($20 a night for a room with two double beds, shared bath and patio) are still open for Christmas. They are both near the beach, stores and restaurants. Check Chacala Budget Rentals or email me at alatawah@gmail.com for more info.
My move to the beach took a couple of days (well, two trips over two different days). I can’t believe how much stuff I have accumulated. I arrived in Chacala with two suitcases and a small backpack. And it took two small-sized truckloads to move my stuff down to the beach. I have accumulated a fridge, three plastic tables, six plastic chairs, a cooler, a tent, a mattress, bedding, and miscellanous kitchen stuff. And art supplies, and laptop and related equipment, extension cords and a light, etc etc etc
I am having a harder time working out how to do internet stuff since I moved down here. For quite awhile I have been spending five or six hours some days on the computer. I have my own Prodigy connection now, but I still have to find a phone line to use when I what to go online. Right now I have five families who seem to be okay with me using to their phone lines, so I kind of rotate around, trying not to wear out my welcome.
So far it’s working out okay, but living on the beach is different. People say I shouldn’t use this laptop when the air is moist or breezy because the salty moisture and sand-laden air is hard on computers. I think I will try hiding out in the tent with the window flaps zipped up. Then do my normal walk to someone’s phone line to go on-line.
There are more tourists from the US and Canada showing up – seven motor homes on the beach and two boats on the water this morning. Five of the motor homes were from Quebec, which doesn’t bode well for the local entrepenuers, at least if the rumors about French-Canadians who travel in motor homes are true. The rumor being they are very, very careful with their pesos and generally don’t spend any money in Chacala. I have only met a few French-Canadians and they were very nice, and I don’t know if those rumors are true or not. But it is interesting that local business people would be so aware of the differences between the different nationalities of gringo tourists.
I have been having a good time helping people find a place to stay in Chacala. Things are filling up but there is still room at a few places. The less expensive quartros at Aurora’s ($25 a night with bath, two double beds and covered patio), and Concha’s ($20 a night for a room with two double beds, shared bath and patio) are still open for Christmas. They are both near the beach, stores and restaurants. Check Chacala Budget Rentals or email me at alatawah@gmail.com for more info.
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