Mucho Calor in Chacala

Swimming in the north end of Playa Chacala

Yesterday seemed to have been a turning point into a long, hot summer. It's been in the low 90F's for more than a week, but suddenly, today it just seemed to be TOO hot. About 6pm I took advantage of the (cooler?) shade on the west side of the dirt street, and when looking for Viki, Aurora, Trini, Beatriz, and Maria. I had little errands with each of them. Nobody was home, not even Chata, so I headed down to the store, and found Aurora.

Aurora's clothes were wet, so I knew she had been swimming. She said she was going back to swim, and pulled me along with her. It turned out we were going swimming around at the dingy beach, near the little port. The dingy beach is called that by the yachties who park their dingies here. Local people call it the muelle (dock) beach, I think. It's a calm, safe beach with no waves, where Chacala families tend to swim.

The place was jammed packed with kids and grown-ups. I had my wallet on me, with all my cash, my glasses and keys and a couple of other things. I normally never carry anything except a little change with me when I am wandering around Chacala, but now I needed a place to leave my stuff, since I was swimming in my clothes, like almost everyone else. Then I saw Benjamin, a neighbor, whose wife is a gardener I share plants with. He was sitting alone, next to the old colummns, watching the swimmers and waiting for a boat to come back. So he watched my stuff for me.

The water was great, not too hot yet. In another month it will be too warm to be refreshing, but for now it was perfect. Caught up with everyone I had been looking for, and took care of my errands standing neck-deep in the water. Played with 2 year old Tony (Antonio), who was playing alone in the shallowest water. Some other kids came over and we played splashing-each-other games for awhile. Very cool and refreshing.

You can't see it in this photo,
but the dingy beach is right in front of that big white house in the center left.

Last summer I went swimming alot in the early evening, but most of the time I swam over on the north end of the big beach, where most of the local teens swim. It's more fun for me because there are actual waves to jump around in. But visiting at the dingy beach is nice too. I think I'll alternate or something.

I checked my weather notebook from last year, and my memory served me right. The first rain last year was also right at the solstice. The difference is last year it poured, and then rained seriously almost every night for a week. This year we have had little-bitty rain showers some of the nights. You can hardly tell it rained at all in the morning.

I hope we start getting more rain again. It's kind of scary to be so dependent on rainfall. I keep reading about how many people in the world have no local access to potable water, and in some cases, any water. Maybe I misunderstood the bible (or maybe it's from a spiritual) quote about "no more water, but fire next time". Up until now, I thought that it meant, no flood next time, just fire. But maybe it actually met "NO WATER" and we will burn up. How depressing.

Maybe Melinda and Bill Gates could focus a few pennies on getting water to everyone, especially drinkable water. It's kind of scary to see Coke (and other giants) taking over the drinking water business all over the world. Of course, the process of making parts for computers is a very high polluter of water, so maybe he is ignoring that issue. Or maybe not. I hope not.

Chacala Photos

I have added a number of new photos to the blog called "Chacala Nayarit" . You can connect to it by clicking on "Chacala Nayarit" in the LINKS list on the right-hand side of this page. Or go to http://chacalanayarit.blogspot.com.

Early in the Morning in Chacala

I love walking on Playa Chacala early in the morning. Hardly ever see any other footprints, just mine, and maybe some bird and dog prints. And maybe some plastic trash. It's so beautiful. The sun starts shining way out on the water, and gradually moves closer and closer to the beach until it hits me. Sometimes, after a some rough waves, I find some seashells. Not very often though.

Chacalilla Beach, right up from Chacala, is the place for seashells. And mala aguas (jelly fish) in the warmer months. Of course, you have to boat in there, or walk in thru the jungle or around the rocky point. Even though all the beaches in Mexico are public, somehow Marina Chacala (the name of the gated-community that has taken over the beach) has managed to make it seem like it's a private beach. Although if you boat in or walk in they can't kick you out. The security people will often try to imtimidate you, but legally they can't do much.

Anyway, walking on the nice soft, sandy beach, with no one else in sight, is one of my favorites thing to do in Chacala.

This is a view of the beach looking north from Majahua. A great place for watching the sun go down. Also for drinking lemonada (homemade lemonade with sparkling water). Or whatever it is you like to drink. Or eat.

Last winter it was interesting to watch workers build a new rock-based path across the top of the beach (near the trees, etc) from the actual Majahua Resort over to their "Beach Club". It seems to consist of laying flat beach rocks in a line and then filling between the rocks with buckets of sand. Makes a nice, firm, fairly easy-to-walk-on path from one part of the beach to the other. They used the same process for making a flat, sandy area for lying in the sun. And sitting at umbrella tables. Flat rocks covering the area, then sand covering over the rocks. They used the same technique under the ramadas at Esparanza's camping area. Somehow it makes a firm floor area.

I have been getting some emails about Christmas and winter rentals. I have been warning people that rentals are filling up earlier that ever this year. Especially Christmas thru end of February. If you are looking for a two bedroom, Paul's new "Satow" Bungalows are ready to go. Pool is finished and full of water. These are two bedroom units, nicely laid out and decorated. Nice colors. You can call Paul directly to his cell. It's listed on the Rental blog. I think the rent is in the $70/80 a night range. Terry's, next door are also nice, two bedroom units. Phone number in also in the rental listing.

It is much hotter, sooner, this year than last year. My notes show it didn't reach the 90'sF until late July last year, and it's been in the 90's for a week or more already this year. Pretty warm. Not very humid though. Although I think I might be pretty acclimated to the humidity and not really notice it any more. And I generally stay inside and out of the sun during the heat of the day.

There also seem to be alot more birds. Or make I am just more aware of them. Besides the amazing little hummingbirds everywhere, I have been seeing alot (or maybe just one, many times) of black birds with really bright yellow on the wings and breast. Kind of stripey. And on the beach there is a wading bird very morning with long skinny legs and yellow feet. Bright yellow feet. She takes one runny step and then can fly very close to the water for a long ways. So graceful. Since I still don't get how airplanes fly, I guess it's unlikely I would understand how birds fly.

There have been lots of social events lately. A baptism. Two birthdays this Friday (Blanca and little Christina) . Two birthday parties last weekend. Primary graduation this week. Kinder graduation next Tuesday at 4pm, with a Mass at 3pm. Planning is still going on for the EBACH and townspeople bus trip to Oaxaca in mid-July. Hopefully the teacher strike in Oaxaca will be over by then. It's supposed to end before the Mexican presidential election on Sunday.

My favorite palm frond (not the palm in this photo), right outside the window in front of my desk, is totally open now. It took about six weeks maybe to open completely. It stands there so straight and symmetrical and beautiful. I love the way trees and plants have such an orderly pattern/design/symmetry. They seem to know just how they are supposed to grow. I hardly ever see deformed, people-pruned, symmetry destroying pruning of trees here. It the tree looks odd, it's usually from windstorms or "self-pruning". That is, branches breaking off on their own.

Learning (sort of) Spanish in Chacala

Someone waiting for a ride at the Chacala collectivo stop in Las Varas

This morning on the collectivo going into Las Varas, I noticed I could understand most of the words to a Spanish song some guy was singing on the radio. Then later, in the market that always has a TV blasting, I realized I understood what the announcer was saying without looking at the screen for some contextual hints. After all this time, I can sort of get by in Spanish, but I am a thousand miles from being fluent, or even competent in Spanish.

I had two years of Spanish and two years of Latin in high school, and two years of Italian in college, and never learned much of anything. For the five months before I moved to Mexico, I took two Spanish classes (two different classes with two different teachers on two different nights a week) for most of two quarters. Still didn't learn much. Written vocabulary and some phrases maybe.

I took some Spanish classes with Trini when I first arrived, but it was the start of the winter tourist season and I never really got into the rhythm of classes. We did/do spend time together, talking and helping each other some with our respective language studies. Of course, Trini is a thousand years ahead me in her English, as compared to me and my Spanish.

Lately we have been talking again about her "Escuela de Espanol". Awhile ago I set up a mini-website for her but we never really took the time to work on it and I took if off the Web awhile ago. But if you are interested in arranging for classes with Trini her e-mail is trinimoya2@hotmail.com or call her from the US 011 52 327 219 4018.

The story I told myself is that I was learning by "immersion". I guess I was because I obviously have learned quite a bit. But in the second winter I was here an American woman, Gale LeBow, came to Chacala. It turned out she had written a book called "Spanish Simplified", which has CD lessons, written lessons, and flashcards included. Eight lessons. Very clear and easy to follow and understand. I really liked the book, and Gail, but didn't want to spend the money, and didn't. If you are interested her website is www.SpanishSimplied.com

But then, later that winter, the mother-in-law of a friend of Gail's came to Chacala and she gave me a copy of the book. I was thrilled, and went thru the written part of the book completely, several times over a couple of months. Didn't have a CD player so didn'd do the CD part until later. Learned alot. Then my son brought me a CD player and whenever I was cleaning or drawing or cooking or something, I would play the CD and talk back to the CD. Learned a lot.

Then the CD stopped working and I lost interest in studying. Didn't study at all until the following Fall, when Ann, a great traveller and very generous person, gave me a really nice Spanish language grammar testbook. I have be dipping into that off and on. Usually when I want to know how to say something in particular. But I am really not studying at all.

I usually "read" the weekly Spanish language political "newspaper" in Las Varas whenever I see it. And I buy a couple of Mexican magazines every month. I read them and pass them on to someone in town. I can read signs and stuff. And I can understand some people pretty well and others not at all. People can usually understand me, and they freely correct me, so that's good.

I feel sort of dumb that I haven't put a serious, organized effort into learning Spanish. But it's the truth. Oh well. I can talk to most people around town, and do, everyday. There are still a few English speaking people in town right now, maybe six or eight. And I usually run into one or two of them most days. So I probably won't forget how to speak English.

But I have turned over a new leaf. I set up a little "studying Spanish" desk for myself last, and I am about to put in my 30 minutes a day. Starting today. Well, probably today.

Chacala Morning and the Alta Vista Petroglyphs

I just looked thru some photos taken by Karim Merchant, who stayed here in Chacala this spring at both Majahua and Mar de Jade with his family. He is letting me borrow three of his photos of Chacala, below

E-mailing Karim this morning reminded me of how many really nice people I have met here in Chacala. There's a whole bunch of them.


I think Chacala draws particularly nice visitors, probably at least partly because of the presence of the Techos de Mexico program, Mar de Jade, and the Bibliotecha program (with a library, computer place, kid's afternoon program, and EBACH, the scholarship program for Chacala kids), all of which have drawn many, many volunteers to Chacala. Some are individual volunteers and others are part of Rotary groups, church groupsm and even Habitat for Humanity. Habitat has worked on a number of houses in nearby Las Varas, while the vounteers usually stay here, in Chacala.

View from Majahua, north.
Walked down to the beach road at 7am this morning. Wanted to get some apple juice and microwavable popcorn before it got too hot to be walking around. This popcorn addiction of mine is getting pretty strong. Plus, almost everytime I pop some, somebody shows up, and I have to (get to) SHARE it. Oh well. I like having visitors, especially at the end of the day.

Ran into Jose Manuel when I was out walking. He used to caretake the area where motor homes camp in the winter, on the beach. But he isn't working there anymore. He was at Las Brisas for the whole winter, but now he's driving the Chacala garbage truck around town. He is very happy with his new job, and says it's pays better than his other jobs.

I think there have been about five or six different teams picking garbage since the job started mid-winter, but no one seems to last very long at that job. I only need my trash picked up on Saturday am, so I put my trash barrel down at the bottom of the hill so they won't have to drive up. But then they carry the barrel back up to the house because they have to give me a receipt. I am confused about tipping the garbage guys. At first they weren't supposed to take tips, I think, but maybe it's okay now.

Fruit stand at the La Penita
Thursday street market
Stopped at Aurora's on the way home. She is going to borrow some rolling suitcases from me for the Oaxaca trip. I am lucky, because my son, Erik, has been bringing me suitcases filled with really good stuff whenever he comes down. So I have enough suitcases to loan out. My suitcases have been more places than I have. Guadalajara, Mexico City, San Miguel, Guanajuato, etc etc.

Just as I was leaving Aurora's, her uncle Luis and his wife came driving up. They sell some kind of food, maybe tamales, or something, in the morning. House-to-house. They are very entrepenurial, and are always trying out some moneymaking scheme. This year at Easter they had nice shower and toilet facilities for rent (by the use) for the Mexican tourists in town. Well, any tourist, including me. But at that time of the year it's mostly Mexican tourists in Chacala. And they have a booth in front of the shower area for selling tee shirts and stuff. And I think maybe he, Luis, delivers water to the other cuestos, but I'm not sure about that.

They gave me a ride in the back of the truck, since they were headed up the paved road anyway. People think I am rich when they see the house I am staying in, but then I explain I am cleaning and watering and stuff like that for rent. Some people in Chacala still think I am rich though. I do feel rich here in Chacala, in terms of having a wonderful life.

These petroglyphs are only a few of the many located near Alta Vista, about 20 minutes from Chacala. They are very old, and there are explanatory signs in English and Spanish, with historical and religous information.
The petroglyphs are located in a small valley/stream bed at the start of the mountains to the east of the main highway. It is shady, cool, area and fairly easy walking. Alvaro, who lives in Chacala and speaks English and Spanish, is a special tour guide for going to Alta Vista, and also to visit Huitchol families. Look him up here if you are interested in a small guided tour.

Depending on the season, there may be small pools of water along the Petroglyph trail. This area is an amazing natural amphitheatre that I found a little frightening for some reason.








IF YOU ARE COMING TO CHACALA DON"T FORGET TO TAKE A LOOK AT
THIS WEBSITE called http://chacalabudgetrental.blogspot.com.
This is a "no charge" volunteer service.
No charge to the landlady and no charge to the renter.

Or for more information about Chacala, go to http://chacalanayarit.blogspot.com

Creepy Cangrejos Hit Chacala, Again

One downside of the Chacala rainy season is the 300 million cangrejos that appear from nowhere, and cover the roads, especially in the early evening after a rainy night. They are little land crabs (I think) , about four to six inches across, and really really creepy. And very noisy. When an army of them (they arrival together) goes thru dry leaves or weeds it sounds like a rainstorm.

The new town water system seems to be running. Got about two hours of a full pipe of water on Friday and then more than two hours on Sunday. I now have a big and a small tinacho full of water. That's enough for more than a month. I saw Julio and Guillermo filling a 6 meter long, three foot deep trench with sand this evening. Catching another big leak.

I just noticed that the ratty old delapidated old building just south of Casa Chacala, on the paved road on the way into Chacala, is being torn down. I remember a couple of winters ago that a guy bought that lot. At the time he said he wasn't going to tear the ruin down until he was ready to build. Since it is being torn down, I can make a couple of conclusions (probably all wrong):
That owner is tearing the building down
That owner is planning to build something on the lot
That guy sold the lot to someone else who is going to build something on the lot.
Or, who know, maybe something else altogether.
At the moment most of the buildings on the paved road, coming into Chacala are rentals. First on the left are Augustine's (new white upstairs rentals), then Casa Chacala (white, six units with lovely flower baskets), then a home (Socorro's), and then Concha's Techos rentals and then her son's new rentals (not quite finished). On the right side of the paved road there are two beat-up places with rentals (only rented at Christmas and Easter), and then two Techos de Mexico rentals (first Aurora's four units, then Dona Lupe's upstairs unit, then the new hotel. On up the hill is only houses, for now at least.

Next time I come home to Chacala I am going to try to imagine what the rental row looks like to first-time visitors.

I think I figured out how to set up links to interesting websites on the right hand side of this blog. We'll see if it works.

Chacala's Rainy Season has Begun. Maybe

Guess what? Had a good rainfall in Chacala about 5 this morning. With thunder and lightning right overhead. I got up and unplugged the "refre" and phone. I always keep everything else unplugged unless I am actually using it.

This was the first rain of any kind since early last October. More than eight months without rain. It's incredible how beautifully the fruit trees produce and the vines and shrubs flower with no water.




I think I prefer the title:"An Homage to the Ingenuity of Those Who will Die Young"

Waiting for Water (in Chacala)

Local dancing girls, practicing in front of the lunch-window/bibliotecha in Chacala

I ran into a very interesting blog today. It's called My Oaxaca and the address is http://myoaxaca.blogspot.com. I found a post there, called something about a bomba (pump), to be very timely for me. It's about cultural differences in the experience of time, including some "research". I really enjoyed the post, and found it to be consistent with my experience here, living in Mexican time.

One of the author's comments was that the Spanish verb "esperar" has at least three meanings:
to wait, to expect, and to hope. That fits for me this last six days. I have been waiting for water, expecting the water truck, and hoping for water. And the water I DID get wasn't the water I was waiting, expecting, and hoping for. But I was really happy to see the town water running at this house.

I think Chacala is a great place to try to practice being in the moment. Without smearing my needs and wants all over whatever is actually happening. Being in the here and now, at least for a brief moment in time. As in "be here now". For whatever that's worth.

New Look for My Life in Chacala

I got bored with the old blog template and and trying out this one. Don't know if I like it or not.

I think this phot0 of the beach restaurants/dwelling is from maybe 10 years ago, just guessing. Or at least from before Hurricane Kenna.

Here are some old photos of some of the husbands of the landladies who have Techos de Mexico rental units. I haven't found any pictures of the lovely ladies, but I will keep tooking. If you want to take a look at rentals in Chacala, including the Techos de Mexico units click here.

This is Euloiao, whose wife, Dona Lupe has Casa de Dona Lupe.
This is Gabriel, whose wife has Casa de Beatriz.
Salvatore, whose wife Gracia has Casa de Gracia


I don't know where there are any photos of the women/Techo de Mexico owners. Wish I had some. I love meeting and talking with the older women in Chacala and Las Varas. Older being around my age. Although I have a hard time telling how old women are here. Usually their skin stays soft and unlined even when they are in their sixties. And hair color really isn't much of a clue, what with hair dyes and tints, etc. Or else they look like they are in their late seventies, and it turns out they are younger than me.

This is SATURDAY MORNING, day of the water jug delivery, Coke delivery, water tanker truck delivery (I hope), garbage can pick-up, and two little-boy birthday parties. It was 82 degrees F at 7:15am this morning, with some humidity. The PV weather report predicts run, but no one seems to expect any until after the solstice.

It's 9:39am and no water truck yet. I am getting anxious that it's going to be another no-show day for the water truck. The plants around thehouse are getting very unhappy about the water problem (which I caused myself by forgetting to turn the faceut off for two hours), and so am I.

SATURDAY, EARLY EVENING

The bad news is the water truck never came.

The good news is Guillermo (the water master) and the water worker, Julio, showed up about 11am and had figured out what was wrong, and I had water going into the downstairs (2500 liter) tinacho for more than two hours. Maybe 400 liters. Guillermo said everyone will get two hours of water every day, even Sunday, now that the new well is hooked up to the system. At least I hope that's what he said.

The water seems really clean and clear. I watered all the plants, took a shower, and then washed clothes by hand. Feels good to have a few days water in the tank. I hope the water guy does come tonight or tomorrow. I missed a couple birthday parties today because I am afraid to leave the house. The minute I do, I know he will come.

And here is the world-famous "Muchachos de Chacala" band, rehearsing for their next big performance. Just kidding. It's Euloiao and his buddies taking a break from taking a break.

Hanging Around in Chacala

This nice little map is from a website: http://www.moon.com/planner/puerto_vallarta/mustsee/playachacala.html
At the actual website you can click on the squared places and see photos and further info.


Yesterday I went into Las Varas first thing in the morning to go to the ATM and the Post Office (Correo) , and then came home, computed for a while, washed clothes with almost the last of the water (hoping the water guy would really shows up in the morning) and took a nap.

When it cooled off a little I walked down to Gracia's house and hung around under the ramada, visiting with Chicha (Narcissa) and Gracia, and her husband Salvatore, and his daughter, son-in-law and grandaughter, America. We laughed and laughed and laughed. I can understand more Spanish lately. I think I moved up a small level in comprehension. Berta, the daughter, was painting some directional signs for going to the Muelle. She said they see tourist cars going the wrong way, and then backing up, all day long, and that the signs may help. The signs seemed to be readable only after you make the turn, but maybe I am just being picky.

Narcissa said that Julietta, my favorite Kinder teacher, has finished working in Chacala and is starting a computer course in Tepic. She will really be missed. Her sub, for the last two weeks of the school year, is staying at Marta's, about a block from the Kinder building. The sub is some kind of supervisor, so that should be okay. Some very nice tourists from Idaho brought some Spanish-language books down for kindergarten-level kids. She is a teacher in Idaho. I love it when people bring things for the Kinder.

Frank, who has the little new tienda in that neighborhood, picked up a paperback books I was carrying around and starting reading it, in English. He and his wife, Angelica, both speak and read some English. He was in high school in San Diego for three years and remembers alot. We agreed I would bring him some other English language books and magazines to practice on.

Just as I got home a local friend showed up at the house, wanting help sending an English language e-mail to a mutual, English-only, friend who has visited and contributed alot to Chacala over the years. We did okay with the letter, I think. We also practiced making (and eating) popcorn on the microwave here. It was Delicious!!! Popcorn and Coke. My favorite, right now.

Then we walked over to a neighbor's house. She had just had surgery and was reclining gracefully on some kind of chair arrangement. She seemed to be cheerful, so I hope the surgery was successful. I couldn't follow the conversation very well, and went down to Sarai's store to get some jars of fruit juice, which were a hit.

On the way home I walked with Socorro and her adult son. We went into the mango orchard and picked a big bag of mangos for them to take home. I think those trees are just about picked clean. The sweet roll and bread truck came by, and the owner, Lalo, wanted to come up at the see the house, which he did. He seemed to think it was funny I was living in so many different places, especially going from the beach (and tent) to this big house.

Now it's Friday morning, and I waiting for the water truck to arrive (fingers crossed). Friday is one of the days the Coke order-taker comes around to take orders. I just leave my order clipped to a plastic chair down at the bottom of the driveway (so he doesn't have to drive up). A few minutes ago two ladies came up on the porch. After a confusing conversation I figured out they thought the "Coke" sign on the chair meant I am selling Cokes and they wanted one. I only had warm ones so we shared a warm Coke. Nice friendly smiles.

There has been a very very loud jetski running constantly for two days, or more, down in Chacalilla.

(Added Saturday am) The "jetski" was going until almost 10pm last night, and started up again at 6:05am right under my window (almost). So I went out to see what the noise was, and it was a security guy with a muffler-less blower, the kind for blowing leaves away. He was apparently blowing dust off the cobblestones. Must have been a boring night or something. For months I had thought that sound was the muffler-less moto belonging to one of the security guys, but no, it's the blower.

Chacalilla pre-invasion
I think this photo of beach restaurants might be pre-Kenna.