Monday, January 15, 2007

Changing Me in Chacala -Mexican Time

It’s hard to try to step back and try to become aware of how I have changed over the past three years I have spent in Chacala. But I know I have changed in some ways. Today I noticed one change pretty clearly. It's do do with making plans, versus kind of "going with the flow". To use a phrase I never liked.

Over the past year or so I have moved to hardly ever making plans ahead of time. Even a day ahead. And I like living my life that way. I do have mental lists about things I want to get done. The main items are usually: doing rental arrangements and emailing with the renters, getting stuff from the store (generally toilet paper, milk, water, and pan/rolls), and occasionally going to the bank, tianguis, or laundry in Las Varas. And once or twice a month going to P.V.for English books and other stuff I can’t find here. But I hardly ever decide to go until a few minutes before I actually take off.And similarly, I never actually plan to swim in the ocean, but I always have my beach water shoes handy at the beach somewhere. And now I just swim in the regular clothes (shorts and shirt). Easy and I never have to think, “Oh I should wear or bring my suit, etc”. If the water looks like fun or someone I like is going in the water, I just go in. Usually almost everyday.

People who are visiting Chacala like to schedule things, just like I used to in the U.S. Like making dates with people when to met for dinner, and where, etc. Or when they might come over, or whatever. And I can understand wanting to do that in a strange place. Which Chacala prbably is for first-time visitors. I guess it's a way to kind of get your bearings, or make some markers for your day. But I really don’t like doing that anymore, and I try very hard to avoid having people expect me to do something or be somewhere any particular time or place.Partly it’s because I don’t like being tied down, and partly it’s because I never know what will happen between the time we might make a plan, and when the time arrives to get together. Things come up and things happen, and it feels better to take care of what’s important in the moment rather than ignoring the present in order to fulfill some obligation made in the past.

I know that in my old life I didn’t feel that way. I would have been terribly insulted if someone made a plan with me and didn’t show up or whatever. It would feel very personal. But it doesn’t feel like that here. Sometimes the thing that came up is much more important for some reason than some old plan from days ago.

And it doesn’t seem to be considered rude here to not show up for most planned events or whatever. Or to be late. Even very late. My guess is everyone understands and appreciates that things happen, and that you will get there when you can. And I think everyone enjoys the freedom that attitude allows you.I think this approach, that is, not making plans, makes it easier to keep your priorities straight. And when you know other people are taking care of what’s important to them, it feels okay if they don’t show up. Or are late. Or whatever.

I had a really hard time a few months ago when someone I was counting on kept not following thru with our plans. It felt really personal. But it really wasn’t. She was doing what seemed important to her at the moment. And her job, kids, and other family obligations were her first priorities. And clearly came before our little plans. It first it kind of hurt, and then I started noticing how freeing it feels to be able to do what’s important in the moment.

I used to feel like people weren’t “keeping their word” if they no-showed, or were late. Then I figured out maybe that’s not the issue. It doesn't need to be written in stone that you will meet whenever. It’s kind of an estimate and an intention. And both parties here seem to understand that’s the deal. That sometimes other things come first, and it’s nothing personal.It was hard for me to get used to that way of interacting with people. But it feels very freeing. And I really try avoid allowing myself get drawn in to making plans with people to do something later. I don’t like how it feels. I like my life better when things just work out. You run into people you need to see, or they are home when you go there, or show up wherever you are. It’s very easy and nice.Now that I think about it, I never much liked making social plans ahead of time in the U/S. So I guess I found the right place for me. I never understood the term “Mexican time”. But I think I do now. And I like it. But it makes it hard to be around people who want future things nailed down today.

Sunday, January 14, 2007

Credit in Chacala

The credit thing seems to be booming around Chacala. After watching two repo men yesterday, as they went around town picking up unpaid-for objects, I started thinking about the changes in Chacala to do with money and credit.This is Jaime, who is starting to learn the real estate business,
apprenticing with Rodrigo,
who sells real estate in Chacala and Sayulita.

Like people using ATM cards. Often people who can't read the instructions on the ATM's screen. And who bring a friend or family member with them to do the transaction. That is very common.

I think real estate loans are really uncommon in rural areas like Chacala. But consumer bank loans seem to be getting more common. The banks do seem to offer loans for cars at 30% a year interest. Bancomer, the local bank, was bought up by Citibank or one of the other big banks a couple of years ago.At the Las Varas bank.
But they are still using Mexican banking practices. That is: terrible customer service, long, long lines waiting for a teller, incompetent staff, high fees and penalties for everything, and terrible interest rates. Of course, that's just my experience.My landlady, Dona Lupe, at her restaurant, Fonda de Lupita
Many adults who live around here only went to school thru the 4th grade or so. Few people seem to be able do more than very simple math. And even fewer seem to know how to use arithmetic to figure out things: like budgets, to itemize expenses, make a business plan, or figure out the true cost of interest.

Many otherwise saavy and seemingly intelligent people in Chacala seem to be buying things on credit these days. Or loans. Or signing up for Cable TV at $50US a month. I am afraid for them. And I hope they have not put up their homes or land for collateral for credit.

As far as I can see there is no education here in the schools regarding budgeting, the cost of credit or the cost of loans. It worries me a lot. I am looking for some agency that provides that service to rural communities. Someone in La Penita told me there is an agency that will come to a small town and offer quick classes about credit, budgeting, and so on. I think it’s really needed. I don't think this is an issue to do just with Mexicans, but it's related to social class and education and TV. And it's everywhere in the world, I am afraid.Marjorie, whose radio program
about the Techos de Mexico program in Chacala

will be aired on CBC in February.
She is saying good bye to Concha, owner of a Techos de Mexico rental unit.
Some local people in the area, not just Chacala, are selling their real estate, usually small lots, for much less than they seem to be worth. I hope I am wrong about this.

It feels like there are more and more people in Chacala trying to make big bucks off the locals or from the gated “community” next door. It seem really sad to me.A building being constructed on the bluff above the south end of Chacala

Toilets in Chacala

Another Sunday morning in Chacala. The weather is beautiful. Sunny and in the mid-8o’s. There's still fewer motor home parked alot the beach than other years. And the ones that are here are the smaller types. At least most of them are smaller. One is parked crossways, taking up four places usually used by camping Mexican families. another on BC pulled into the large empty palm grove, and formed a corral with their rigs. Making it impossible for the only other rig in the whole area to hook up and move out. Strange days.

When I got home last night I found that my landlady had rented her downstairs room to a large family. 8 people. Four adults. Four kids. From Guadalajara. I don’t know where they all slept, because that room has only two beds, a single and a double (called matrimonio here).There was a third bed, but the repo guys came a few days ago and took back a new bed. The driver told me the whole truck was full of stuff being repossessed in Chacala that day.

I keep asking Dona Lupe to tell people she rents to that the toilet flapper needs to closed by hand after each flush. Otherwise the entire tinaco (water storage on the roof) will be emptied in about two hours. She doesn’t remember, and doesn’t want to fix the flapper. I have paid for four new flappers over three stays here, and my sort-of-landlord ruins it every time he gets drunk. Luckily that’s only once a month of so.

Anyway, I keep a close watch on the toilet that serves the two units downstairs, to make sure the flapper is closed. It's my own fault that there are renter's more often now, since I put a sign up in front of the house that says "Se Renta" and "Rooms for Rent". No good deed goes unpunished, I guess. Anyway, Dona Lupe is happy with the renters. A;though the past family here skipped out without paying for their second night. My experience is that some men, particular drunk ones, do not want advice about toilets from a woman. Oh well.Usually I catch the new renters when they arrive, and show them about the flapper, and there’s no problem. But the people last night arrived about two hours before I got home. They had already drained the system. I tried to talk to the adult male in the party, but he was too drunk to make much sense. He insisted that the toilet was fine. But the toilet was already unflushable (no water in the system) and had been used anyway. I found a bucket and filled it with water and flushed it. One of the women came out, and I showed her where the garbage can filled with water was, so they could flush during the night. She got it and we laughed about the man.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Birds Over Water, In Chacala

I don't feel like writing, but I will post some photos anyway.
These are some birds, which I think are pelicans. I took the photos uphill from the beach and they aren't very clear. But I like them anyway. Some Sufi's I knew in my previous life are at Mar de Jade this week, and I want to have a very quick visit with them.




Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Spending the Day in Chacala

Well, the Christmas break for Mexican tourists seems to be over. School starts up again today all over Mexico. The streets of Chacala are very quiet this morning, and everyone is heading up to the Chacala schools (Kinder, Primaria, and Secundaria/junior high) or on the collectivo to the schools in Las Varas and La Penita. Wearing their uniforms and carrying backpacks.

Most of the tourist-orientated souvenir store were closed this morning, including the internet/game cuesto down the beach road.

There are some interesting gringo tourists around town. Today I was visiting with Aurora, next door. I met one of her new guests. He’s a chiropractor from Alaska who is helping at the Clinica in Las Varas .

And last night I sat with some other guests of Aurora’s at Las Brisas, a beach restaurant in Chacala. I ate popcorn I got microwaved at Koko-bongos and a refresco/pop from Las Brisas. With permission from Ramon, at Las Brisas, I ate my popcorn and visited with Marjorie, who is recording a segment for CBC radio on the Techos de Mexico program, and the two friends of hers who are staying at Aurora’s.Some Huitchol artwork, available here in Chacala
I am spending the morning at home tidying up, gardening, washing clothes, and dishes, and starting to cook some food ahead. Boiled eggs, and some chicken breasts. And some cut-up fruit. I have had company off and on all morning. Nice company on a sunny morning.

I have been getting some invitations from visiting gringos for rides to Las Varas, La Penita, and Puerto Vallarta. Some people have either driven down or have rented cars. I avoid riding in vehicles with gringo drivers because I have been in too many near-miss accidents riding with non-local drivers.Trini and Cunda have a new sign in front on their house,
advertising their services.
A nicer one is on order, and on the way.
Most men seem to think they know how to drive in Mexico, and most don’t. On the toll roads they probably do fine. But the traffic patterns for turns and signaling and lights are really different here. And people tend to believe that they can just drive like they do in the U.S.-Canada. But it doesn’t really work. And often they don’t realize that if it weren’t for alert local drivers they would probably be involved in a string of fender-benders and worse.

So I try to stick to riding in big vehicles like buses and collectivos. Or with good local drivers. Or the collectivos. I need to go to the ATM today, and I want some more peanuts in the shell and maybe some buckets. I am trying to save up some pesos for a bus trip during Easter week, Semana Santa, but so far I am no doing to well on my saving plan.This tower is the local gated community's gift to Chacala. Actually it's a tower for the use of the residents of the development. Not for Chacala people. It's carefully located so the people in the development can't see it, but it looms over Chacala. Very ugly.
I can’t remember if I wrote that I painted the inside, waist-high walls of my teraza the other day. I don’t like the pastel green color very much. The color-choice was a compromise with Dona Lupe, who didn’t want any strong colors. It looks nice and fresh, and I am happy with it. And with my whole living arrangement. I have had warm, not hot, shower water for a week now. I have only the pilot lit under the hot water tank, so it’s not really hot. But the warm water feels great, and the big blue tank with probably last for about 4 or 5 months. With an luck.

Saturday, January 06, 2007

Favorite Faces, in Chacala

I think my life in Chacala has changed me in some small ways. Like about really looking at people.

Maybe I have never looked at faces very closely before. I don’t like my face, and possibly that has resulted in me not looking at people’s faces very closely. But using the camera kind of changes things. People’s faces look so different sometimes in the camera. And often I think I can see things in the photo that I hadn’t noticed in real life.Of course, some people are just lovely to look at, camera or no camera.
This little girl, whose parents are Huitchol Indians, an group who come down from the mountains in this part of Mexico to sell their art.

I just fell in love with her face. She Is just so beautiful. I was drawn to her face the minute I saw her. I never expected her father to let me photograph her, but he did. And I was glad I could offer him a fee for the privilege.Lately I am especially drawn to the faces kids and older people. And somehow it’s easier to take satisfying pictures of them. The past couple of weeks I have been trying again and again to take really nice photos of two different adults whose looks I really like. And I haven’t been successful yet.

I don’t know what I am doing wrong. I guess it’s either some people don’t photograph well, or there are some people I don’t photograph well. Or both.Marta, at Tres Mars, one of my favorite restaurants, has a lovely face. I love to see her. Plus she is very affectionate and friendly, and a good hugger. I like that. Marta was asleep when I took this photo. I showed it to her the next day, after I had it printed out. I told her she could tear it up if she wanted to. But she didn’t want to. I think maybe she thought it was funny to see herself sleeping in the hammock.This is Adolfo Diaz, a wonderful saxophone player, who has been playing the last few nights at Majahua. I love his face when he is playing, and I could never get it right. I took maybe 100 photos of him, and never got what I was looking for.

The same with his wife, Gayin, who has voice I really love, and who sings many of my favorite songs. I couldn’t capture the magnetism, or wildness, or something she has when she is singing. I kept trying. And I will probably try again this afternoon.It’s so frustrating. When I finished this post I am going to study my camera handbook. I am thinking that maybe part of my lack of success may be partly due to a lack of technical knowledge. As opposed to not having a good eye or good timing or something.

I had no idea how satisfying taking photos could be. I feel so lucky to have such a nice camera, thanks to my lovely son and his wonderful Dad. But it’s frustrating too. Especially not being able to take a really nice picture of someone I really like.

I have a nice time the last few days dropping off photos to the families of the little kids around town. I don’t have the cash right now to print out my favorite adult photos. Maybe in a few weeks. I am actually glad I couldn’t get them printed when I did the kid’s photos. Because now I realize that photos of adults need to be really flattering, or they don’t like them. And I am just learning how to do that. With only occasional success.

I have gotten pretty good at making photos of rentals look better than they look in real like. I just realized I was doing that a few days ago. So now I am going around and taking more realistic photos of some places. And, of course, some places just plain look good. Like Mirador, Villa Celeste, Mar de Jade, and Majahua

Whatever, in Chacala

I have been reading about Columbia, and Cartegena. First in the special “South America” edition of “Departures” magazine, and then in an old edition of the Lonely Planet “Central America” book.

I was attracted by several things. Apparently no visa is required. Columbia has both a Caribbean and a Pacific coast, and Cartegena seems to be a neutral zone, the Casablanca of Columbia. And it’s old. With many ruins and buildings from the Spanish “occupation”.

I will keep reading about it. There’s probably something horrible there besides civil unrest and drug stuff and poverty. Like giant snakes or something. Or a paralyzing malaria. And unfortunately, you can’t take the bus there. And apparently there’s no ferries.

Anyway. Whatever. Every three or four months I seem to get the travel urge, but I hardly ever follow up on it. But I am interested in living somewhere with a documented history. Chacala has some history, but it’s not very clear was it is.

Three things about the Chacala area particularly interest me. I have read little tidbits on these topics in local publications. One is the claim that is was the first harbor for moving stuff to and from Guadalajara to the Pacific Ocean. And another is that during “pre-history” in “Chacala” a volcano erupted, leaving the area without residents for a long period of time. What period of time, I don’t know. I also read that in some early history Zacualpan, Las Varas, Alta Vista, and Chacala were considered to be areas where the local people were interested in s spirituality. And the areas to the south, like La Penita and Lo de Marco, etc were the area for war-mongers. Don’t know what that means, but I am curious to keep researching as best I can.

Sometimes I wonder if I was drawn to this area for more than the obvious reasons: gorgeous beaches, wonderful vegetation, lots of food grows here, and nice people, and great weather in the winter. And okay weather in the summer.

The first time I came here (a week or so after hurricane Kenna, in early November 2002), I knew within two second that this was the place for me. Even with all the damage and mess from the hurricane, it just seemed like Chacala was what I had been searching for. And it still feels that way.

The last three evenings I have been especially filled with appreciation for my life here. I have been listening to Adolfo Diaz play the sax, and his wife, Gayin sing my favorite songs each night. Sitting on the hillside at the edge of the “jungle”, with the moon shining down thru the trees, and the waves crashing, I keep being amazed at what a wonderful life I have been given.

I love the saxophone. The cello is my other favorite. Both instruments seem to just come into my heart. I love the sounds they make. And Adolfo makes lovely sounds that go on and on. It takes my breathe away some times. And Gayin is so amazing. She sort of dances when she sings, like a wild woman. She is amazing to hear and watch.

Anyway. This morning I am feeling full of gratitude for this lovely life.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

A Musical Day in Chacala and at Majahua

Yesterday was a very musical day for me. And really nice day. Maybe one on my nicest days in Chacala. I will just write about the music parts of the day. Plus the lemon pie at Majahua.

First, I got to listen while Miguel Angel, the collectivo driver, as he practiced singing “Guantanamera”, in preparation for being taped by Marjorie G. She is preparing a Canadian Broadcasting Company radio program about the Techos de Mexico program in Chacala.Miguel Angel, collectivo driver and singer
This program has provided eight improverished women in Chacala with no-interest loans to build rental units, and in some cases, living quarters for their families. Jose Enrique de Valle, owner of Majahua, along with many volunteers, and local workers, helped to build the units. I have lived in two of the Techos units: Aurora’s and Dona Lupe’s, and can vouch personally for the quality of the units. And the value of living on the same property with the landlady. And her family.Jose Enrique and J0se Carmello
Miguel Angel is going to be taped singing "Guantanamera" later this week. Since he didn’t know all the words, he transcribed them from a disk provided by M.G.. And now he is studying the verses very day. Yesterday he performed for me and Anatasia, a young woman who is working at Mar de Jade. We were at the collectivo stop in Las Varas, waiting for riders to show up. Miguel Angel’s voice was just lovely. It was a very nice moment. And we played the diskette all the way to Chacala, with some of us singing along on the chorus.

I had no idea until a few days ago that the song is about a man singing about his love for the area of Cuba where he grew up. It’s very beautiful, and it was my Mom’s favorite song. We even sang it at her “wake”, or goodbye dinner, after she died.

The second musical event took place at Majahau, the most beautiful setting in Chacala. The evening was really, really special for me. First, Aldolfo Diaz, a well-known saxophone player, who was raised in this area, played for a group of us at Majahua. Jose Enrique told us Adolfo is very well known, and has played all over the world. Adolfo played lots of music, some familiar some not. It was all so beautiful. The sound of the sax is so haunting and beautiful.
And then Adoflo’s wife, Payin (Ampado Cejudo?) sang for us. Solo. All kinds of blues, and old favorites from the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s. In Spanish, English, and French. It was wonderful. For some of her songs the recorded accompaniment was a tenor sax solo by her husband. Her voice and the music together were just wonderful.

One nice thing, for me, is that the first couple of years I was in Chacala, it seemed like whenever I was around Majahua, a CD of a woman singing was on the sound system. I loved her voice and the songs she was singing. And I kept asking who it was, and saying I wanted to have a copy. And guess what, it was . She has a copy of that release, so I am in luck. I can’t wait.
View of Majahua from the ocean
Last night, the saxophone music and the singing were wonderful. And the setting was perfect: the view of the Chacala Bay, 30 feet away, the sound of the waves breaking, andthe reflected light of the moon filtering thru the jungle and unto the ocean. It was a magical evening. Really amazing, and unforgettable, at least for me.View of Majahua from the beach
The couple are close friends of Jose Enrique and his wife Carmen. I hope that means they will come back often. I doubt that I will ever forget the music and the setting last night.View of Playa Chacala from Majahua
Plus, I had the most incredible piece of lemon pie. It was so delicious I could hardly hear the music while I was eating it. Small bite by small bite. Every one so delicious. I think of myself as a very experienced eater, and cooker, of lemon pies. And this was the best I ever had. Every bite was incredible

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

New Year's Day


These photos are also from Chico's, taken on New Years Day.
This is New Year’s Day, 2007, in Chacala. Lots of people are on the beach, and filling the restaurants, rentals, and camping areas. Many are from the area (Las Varas, Zaculpan, Compostella), and some of the little towns, like Alta Vista, and El Capomo. Some are from Tepic and Guadalajara, and even further away. School doesn’t start until January 8th, and lots of families are on vacation.

There seem to be fewer beach vendors than I remember from last year. But maybe that’s because I am not living under a ramada on the beach this winter. And more and more people are taking their trash with them. Or at least taking it off the beach. Last night I was walking home from Majahua. I was picking up plastic trash below the high tide line. When my arms were full, I asked a family sitting on the beach if they had a bag I could use for the trash. And, lo and behold, they had a real trash bag, already half-full of trash. And not only that, their two teenage boys were cleaning up a whole stretch of the beach. They were from Guadalajara, and spoke a little English.As I walked along, everytime my arms were full of trash, I asked a family on the beach for a bag. And all but one family had some sort of trash bag. And they were policing up their picnic areas. I can’t tell you how different it was from last year. When people didn’t even want a trash bag if someone offered it too them. I think the school and government are promoting litter-consciousness this year. It was an amazing change, for the better.

The water looks very inviting from my teraza, but I am cooking some chicken right now, and distracting myself from wanting to go down to the beach for a swim by writing this.Rinsing off the salt water at the water tank and bathrooms in Chico's parking lot.
I am still working on my resolution for 2007. I am kind of refining it as the day goes on. However, I don’t think I am going to be really successful at changing my basic personality. Which seems to be loaded (as shown in this blog) with judgmental-ness and critical (as in negative) thinking. However, I am trying to change. Just in case there really are some pearly gates awaiting for me when I die.I did realize today how annoying I find it to have an English speaker correct my Spanish, without my asking for help. Particularly when it’s a person whose Spanish is nothing to brag about. And I didn’t react very well when it happened today. And, of course, the person was right. Oh well.

In Chacala on New Year's Eve

I went to a wonderful fiesta at Chico’s last night. For my fourth New Year’s Eve in Chacala. There were alot of people there, almost all family. At one point I counted heads, and got 74 people. But people were coming and going all night. The kids and teens were tearing around, so who knows how many people were there.Chico, founder of Chico's Restaurant
Except for me and another gringa, everyone at the party was a family member, an in-law, a step-child, or something, of Chico and Narcissa. Ther are the parents of Aurora. One of their sons, Marcos, who lives in San Diego, comes down to Chacala with his family about twice a year, New Year’s and Easter, I think. It’s nice to see a family spending time together. And the older kids hanging together with their family.One of the musican's who frequently plays at Chico's
In this case, the word “family” might be kind of a stretch. Like Chico’s step brother’s daughter’s sister-in-law’s child’s boyfriend’s little boy. I really like it though. I didn’t take my camera down to the party. I was thinking the flash would be disruptive. And, of course, half a dozen people asked me why I wasn’t taking photos. I was just too pooped to walk home and get it, but I wish I had.

These photos are of Chico's during a regular day.After the restaurant closed early on New Year's Eve, and before the fiesta, we took the turquoise tablecloths off the tables, and the waiters stacked the chairs. Then us woman arranged about 20 tables to make a table big enough for about 50 people.
Covered with red table cloths.The men sat around one end of the big table, and around the grill. The women mostly hung around the family table. That’s what I call the table next to the kitchen. Where the waiters and Narcissa, or her son Fernando, who is now running the restaurant sit when the restaurant is open. And where family members and friends and whoever sit to talk and visit. The kids had a campfire on the beach and were setting off fireworks. So were about 20 other family groups on the beach. Pretty noisy.The long table was half covered with bottle of Tequilla and other alcohol. And beer, and big plastic bottles of pop for mixers. And tons of snacks keep arriving on the table. Dried (?) shrimp, and cookies and one thing after another.

I was really tired, and mostly just visited with whoever sat next to me. I made it until about 10:30pm, when the serious meat eating started: pollo and carne, grilled on the restaurant’s wood-burning grill. The chicken was first, and the big flattened-out chickens, grilled to perfections (really!!) were brought into the kitchen, and people came in and cut off whatever they wanted. It was so good. And there were lots of other sides: beans, tortillas and sauces and whatever. Really really good.That’s when I left, after two servings of breast meat. Full and happy. And sad to miss the dancing (if there was any) and the nicest round of “Happy New Year’s” hugs I have every experiences. Everyone is standing together at midnights, and, with everyone hugging and some kissing. Very, very nice. But I was too tired last night.Walked home, up the beach road. Got some more invitations as I was walking along, but just stopped for a few minutes. I love being invited places. this year I was invited to a bunch of parties: a gringo dinner, Dona Lupe’s, Lupita and Guillermos’, and Majahua, I said I love being invited, which is true. But I don’t generally like going to parties. But parties at Chico’s and Majahua are different and I love being included.The hotel owned by the cement company guy from Palm Spring, is a couple of vacant lots north of my place. Of course, they had a loud party , with music until 4am. But it was so much quieter than previous parties that I could hardly complain. However, to block the noise enough to go to sleep, I used my earplugs, closed all the windows, and run the fan.

Some really nice people left yesterday. Kathy and Larry are heading south towards Cental America, via bus. And Susana and Jim are spending a night in Puerto Vallarta, on the way home to Kansas. We had dinner at Tres Mars, currently my favorite place to eat, especially after dark. Actually they are the only place that is consistently open after dark. I will miss them. Jim left me a great book “No On is Illegal” by Chacon and Davis. I think the title is self-explanatory.
Michel, the French-speaking Santa Claus, is reading it next.